Surprise Attack

3 Stars
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Let Me Down Easy  |  Ambush at Bear Creek > Nearly a Whisper >>


The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main grooveline.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (microwires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch.
Surprise Attack

USER COMMENTS

Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place.
craig h - 11/Feb/05

First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top!
Chad - 25/Jul/05

The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up.
Alun - 18/Apr/06

There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating.
martin k - 19/Apr/06

cheeky move of the belay...... more like an easy E2??
phil Dowthwaite - 30/Apr/10

Great second pitch- intimidating rock over protected by small wires followed by a balancey section (again small pro). From here a fantastic romp (tricky move to gain the holds under the overhang) will leave you with a big smile on your face!
Amie - 13/May/12

1st pitch not a walk in the park pro not as obvious as many Pembroke routes; seemed stiffer than some of the St Givans E2s Clean Hand Blues Band, Ricochet, Deranged...
simon cox - 17/Aug/17

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 45
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