3 Stars
 E2 5b

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One of the great Pembroke classics. It follows a cunning line up the wall weaving in and out of the steep bits. Start at the right-hand end of the block under the face, below a steep groove which leads to a ledge on the left.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the groove and wall above the ledge to the break. Traverse left for 10m to belay on a ledge below the longest of several grooves in the wall above.
2) 5b, 15m. Climb the groove, passing left of two roofs, onto a slab and belay. Often found to be the hardest pitch.
3) 5b, 15m. Climb up to a corner on the right-hand side of the large roof. Follow this then move leftwards around the roofs to finish up another corner. These last two pitches can be run together.


E2 for sure by my reckoning....given the commitment, the ab in and the 3rd pitch 'awful move left'...yep...good for the money...
Keith Roughley - 05/Jul/05

Great line with lots of interest on each pitch, second pitch felt only 5a. Top pitch is the meat of the route with thrutchy polished crack and thin traverse (sneaky jug up right). Overall probably worth E2 (combining 2nd and 3rd pitches) or tough E1 done in three pitches.
Chad - 25/Jul/05

A great adventure but pretty sustained and that last pitch is a right bugger.
The Pylon King - 30/Mar/06

Not sure about anyone else, but I found the second pitch to be the most sustained and scary?! Both the gear and the holds never felt as positive as I would have liked!!
Adrian Paisey - 30/Mar/06

I agree with Adrian. I thought the 2nd pitch was the crux and worth E2 5b in its own right.
Neil Binns - 27/Apr/06

I seem to be the only one that finds the first pitch the most committing and intimidating.
Jon Leighton - 01/Sep/08

I felt it kept coming at you one way or another most of the way with a couple of sharper moves very good continuous climbing 5b much of the time.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

Agree that the second pitch felt like E2 5b in its own right- was technical and balancy (with enough gear)..... and in my opinion the show stopper of the route.
Amie - 11/Jun/12

A quality climb with three contrasting pitches, all of which have their moments. A common thread is that you need good footwork.
cockers - 12/Jun/12

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
    hard E3 0 of 4
    E3 0 of 4
    easy E3 0 of 4
    hard E2 0 of 4
    E2 4 of 4
    easy E2 0 of 4
    hard E1 0 of 4
    E1 0 of 4
    easy E1 0 of 4
    hard 5c 0 of 4
    5c 0 of 4
    easy 5c 1 of 4
    hard 5b 2 of 4
    5b 1 of 4
    easy 5b 0 of 4
    hard 5a 0 of 4
    5a 0 of 4
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    3 Stars 10 of 11
    2 Stars 1 of 11
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