Pleasure Dome Top 50

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
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One thing that makes a route truly great is when it goes somewhere that you don't think is possible at the grade. Pleasure Dome must be one of the most classic examples of such a route. It is quite a hard E3 but it is only E3. Climb the rib to the right of the trench to a ledge. Step up to gain the flakeline and follow it rightwards with just enough runners and nowhere near enough foot-holds. Where it blanks out, make a hard move to a non-rest at the top of a rightwards-facing ramp. Move up to some good gear, then climb back down, then move up again and back down, and up and down. Finally pull up again, slightly right of the obvious line and move left to a ledge below the easy finishing corner. Sort your runners out to reduce the rope drag.
Pleasure Dome


A stunning route, but I must hold the record for the longest clean ascent, with epic amounts of faffing, gibbering and generally getting pumped out of my mind! :)
Nick Smith - 08/Feb/05

arghh no nick thought you made a good job of it! A clean ascent is a clean ascent after all!!
curly ben - 08/Feb/05

Absolutely amazing route, incredible position. Not a hard E3, but make sure you get your ropes sorted to avoid hideous rope drag at the top (unlike me who didn't and got stupidly pumped in the top grove as I had to pull up the ropes every time I made a move).
andy farnell - 09/Feb/05

Surely one of the best E3s in Britain. Great moves in a stunning position and a spectacular butsafe fall potential from the crux.
Good double rope technique essential and don't copy Ruth Taylor who kicked the nuts out of the top of the ramp as she moved past them.
My partner Lorne took more than 3 hours to on-sight it.
Another partner used his boot laces to prussik back to the crux after a fall.
Is it a safe DWS?
John Alcock - 07/Mar/05

Oh do I wish I had gone for it a bit more, had five or six attempts at the up from the niche move before slumping on the ropes for a cheeky rest. Quite a tricky move with hidden holds leads you to the end quickly, but you've got to want it! Tough for grade as pretty darn pumpy ,the move right is quite exciting and the rest ledge is just not quite good enough - you don't get more pumped, but you don't recover either! Classic line and pretty amazing position above the waves, awesome stuff!
Chad Harrison - 02/May/06

There is a way of resting on that sloping ledge - but that would be telling.
Yorkspud - 12/May/06

Hard, particularly when greasy. The moves are okay but from the end of the easy (and excellent, the highlight of the route) bit of the traverse it all feels disconcertingly uphill. Good position to finish, which you'll probably notice most when you're looking down wondering if your ropes are stuck due to the drag ;).
Fiend - 27/Jun/06

Totally awesome route. Really easy crux, I thought, followed by a nifty rest on the sloping ramp. The rest holds were wet, but I still managed to de-pump enough. Great gear, quite easy and obvious to place. The rope drag kicks only kicks in when all the hard climbing is over, so that's ok. ;-)
Jus - 31/Jul/07

wow Jus, you must be a really good climber, easy crux? wet holds! everyone bow to your superior!
Sam Ring - 01/Aug/07

Somewhat physical, but piles of excellent gear and massive holds all the way. Outstandingly good fun.
toby - 28/May/09

I had the same problem with wet holds on the 'rest' as Jus did, so this is worth noting because the route obviously takes some time to dry out after heavy rain.
Chris Parson - 31/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 74
    hard E4 0 of 25
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    3 Stars 24 of 24
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