Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 11
An amazingly-positioned route which gives sustained climbing up the wall below Pleasure Dome after a devious start. The rib at the bottom is often wet and greasy. It has seen few ascents in recent years and may well be bolder now that the peg is old. Start below the short leaning wall and make a juggy traverse right into a corner. Move up and right to reach the (wet) rib. Climb this until it is possible to swing left onto the face (old peg - not crucial). Continue direct above to the base of the ramp on Pleasure Dome. Move rightwards up the wall to reach easier ground, and the top. The original start was from a hanging stance in the chimney but this is an uncomfortable stance and your belayer is above you when you start climbing the rib.
Superb, honest but strenuous climbing. The direct start at the same grade is ment to be better!
The Direct Start described in the CC guide is actually a lot less direct than the original and eventually leads to the same hands-off rest in the chimney. However, it avoids the need for a hanging belay.
Fooking hard. Tricky and pumpy gear.