Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 72
An old favourite. It gives good crack and wall climbing on wonderful rock. Start below the cracks 3m right of the block. Climb the cracks to a break. Move up then left to a hidden flake hold and pull back right and up to another crack. Finish direct.
I know a lot of people who like this route, but personally I find it graunchy and a bit pants - one for the Swanage fans perhaps?
Nah - its a nice route (ok not classic)
Bog standard E1 a bit run out in the middle where you are looking for good gear.
There's currently a rather large loose hold in the wide section of the right-hand crack in the lower wall - this is precisely the point where you can place your second bit of gear, so don't say you haven't been warned!
The jammed nut is still there (as James says, in the best placement) but there is other bomber gear around.
One of the best from a week of HVS/E1 climbing. The pocketed headwall seemed better climbed direct just left of the (awkward) final crack. And that wire's still there!
a really enjoyable that's straight up and at you. feels like you've done quite a big route by the time you top out.