The Butcher Top 50

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
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Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!).
The Butcher


A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet!
Nick Smith - UKC - 02/Mar/05

Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think.
Chad123 - 25/Jul/05

Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete.
John Alcock - 25/Aug/05

If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing.
drcorbasisgod - 09/Oct/05

I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short.
john horscroft - 30/Mar/06

Ear Lobes?
pylonking - 08/Apr/06

If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence.
Alun - 18/Apr/06

pumpy pumpy.
paulr - 16/Oct/06

got to be E3 but loads of cam options at jug plus good wires
Climbingmad - 18/Jul/08

That letterbox hold will soon be visible from space, there's so much chalk in there
Chris Parson - 31/Aug/10

This route is deffo only E2. The people who fall off it tend to be "wall climbers" without a good all round ability to judge and pre-empt the moves required. You don't need much strength, it is very well protected, the only difficulty is judgeing the "barn door" move. Basically, this route highlights the distinction between well rounded climbers and those who are not and expect a simple ladder.
Neville Contractor - 07/Oct/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 58
    hard E4 0 of 13
    E4 0 of 13
    easy E4 0 of 13
    hard E3 0 of 13
    E3 4 of 13
    easy E3 6 of 13
    hard E2 3 of 13
    E2 0 of 13
    easy E2 0 of 13
    hard 6a 0 of 13
    6a 0 of 13
    easy 6a 0 of 13
    hard 5c 0 of 13
    5c 0 of 13
    easy 5c 0 of 13
    hard 5b 0 of 13
    5b 0 of 13
    easy 5b 0 of 13
    hard 5a 0 of 13
    5a 0 of 13
    easy 5a 0 of 13
    hard 4c 0 of 13
    4c 0 of 13
    easy 4c 0 of 13
    hard 4b 0 of 13
    4b 0 of 13
    easy 4b 0 of 13
    hard 4a 0 of 13
    4a 0 of 13
    easy 4a 0 of 13
    hard 3c 0 of 13
    3c 0 of 13
    easy 3c 0 of 13
    hard 3b 0 of 13
    3b 0 of 13
    easy 3b 0 of 13
    hard 3a 0 of 13
    3a 0 of 13
    easy 3a 0 of 13
    hard 2c 0 of 13
    2c 0 of 13
    easy 2c 0 of 13
    hard 2b 0 of 13
    2b 0 of 13
    easy 2b 0 of 13
    hard 2a 0 of 13
    2a 0 of 13
    easy 2a 0 of 13
    hard ?? 0 of 13
    ?? 12 of 13
    easy ?? 1 of 13
    3 Stars 13 of 32
    2 Stars 18 of 32
    1 Star 1 of 32
    0 Stars 0 of 32
    Bag of ..... 0 of 32

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