Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 27
To the right of the open corner is a blunt arete which is undercut on its right-hand side. This route follows the crack to the left of the arete. Not very well named, thankfully.
Thought this was desperate and really pumpy. Extremely hard for HVS.
Standard HVS 5A if you can jam. Well protected.
I think this one is really conditions-dependent. I've done it when it was dirty & seeping and found it desperately pumpy, but in good condition it's a nice climb.
Watched someone climb this with a rack of cams. Nearly all shifted or fell out. Pembroke cracks aren't parallel.
I didn't think this was terribly hard or poorly protected for an HVS. Have you ever tried The Sloth? Conditions were good when I lead it, but anyone used to the overhangs at indoor walls would be ok for strength on this.
If you can jam you know it's in the bag as soon as you sink the first one into the crack. If you can't... Gear's ok anyway, lots of big wires, some cams, monster thread.