Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 96
One of the most sought-after routes in Pembroke. It tackles the cracks and flakes up the right-hand side of the buttress. The climbing is never too difficult but there are some hard moves, and there have been many accidents on the lower section. Start just to the right of the flake of Cupid's Bow. Climb up - make sure your gear is good - and gain a rightwards-trending line of cracks. Climb this to a tricky move right into a groove. Most people finish rightwards to a ledge and easy groove above, but it is better to pull straight through the roof, with no increase in grade.
Beautiful route but easy for E1. Thought Cupid's Bow and Statistician were harder.
If this is easy for E1 then I don't fancy doing any tricky ones! Brilliant climbing though in a fantastic position.
Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b.
Just about worth the grade but who cares its a fine route, skip Army Dreamers and do this. One thin' ish move about half to two thirds way up.
Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1.
A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle.
Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune).
Done it 3 times and each time found it a little intimidating. The grade seems right with the noticable increase in polish.
totally overated climb.
Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey?
Remains a fine route and isn't especially polished. The start is straight forward, but pumpy and tricky to protect - care needed if you are pushing your grade.