Deranged Top 50

3 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Blucher < Depraved  |  A Shot in the Dark > Draught Dodger >>

A superb route which follows an intricate line up the wall. Start in the centre of an undercut roof, below a left-trending grooveline. Pull onto the wall, climb the groove then, at its top, step right into another groove and follow this to a roof. Move right around this then make a hard move back left above it to a flake/pillar which leads to the top.


Total classic, varied and technical throughout, though no moves harder than 5b really. At the top you can either pull over the right end of the roof into the niche or traverse round it, steeper vs delicate, your choice! The final crack just requires a quick layback.
Chad123 - 25/Jul/05

I think E2 5b is a better grade. I'm not sure where the 5c move is supposed to be but then I went straight through the final roof rather than traversing right and then left. Absolutely awesome route!
huwtj - 25/Jul/05

Agreed - E2 5b would be more accurate. I kept waiting for the "sting in the tail", and after leading Ricochet I expected more than I got. Not that I was disappointed though - an awesome climb!
drcorbasisgod - 09/Oct/05

I lost count of the technical cruxes (four?). Each one different in it's own little way. This is a climb with everything (including the sting in the tail) to recommend it.
SteveM - 02/May/06

Yes - a real classic, best route ive done all year by far - very sustained but always interesting and never desperate (although that last groove could be a point of failure if you dont find a rest beforehand)
pylonking - 16/Jul/06

However there are lots of good rests between the hard moves (definately nothing harder than 5b)
pylonking - 16/Jul/06

Brilliant route. What fantastic, varied climbing - a bit of everything.
Paul Evans - 01/Oct/07

Really nice, pleasently sustained, good gear. Certainly not high in the grade for E2 IMO.
GrahamD - 05/May/09

Really a v good route indeed, defo my fav at St G. Many (4 or 5?) well-pro crux sections, each about what you'd find on an E1 crux, but none of them harder than hardish 5b, generally pretty safe (care required at steep start) with an exposure blast to finish. Sting in the tail not so bad once committed, summoning courage as usual the hardest part. 3 star mid-grade E2 tricky 5b, good choice for first PB E2?
Owen WG - 21/May/09

Placed far too much gear low down, so instead of nice medium wires for the second groove below the roof i had to place sideways nuts sizes 1 and 2. I did the traverse right then back left method which involved a quite tricky move with only a peenut for pro (my fault entirely for not stopping and placing more gear on the rightwards traverse) to reach the rest before the step left to the final pillar. Got very pumped/scared and made a total balls of the last bit but somehow managed to top it out without falling. My belayer merely shook his head as i looked down at him with a look of terror in my eyes! Great Route :)
Adam Moroz - 17/Nov/10

Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's a full-on intimidating route with some committing moves,but the joy is that's the gear's good and you have many hands off rests........ace!!
cockers - 20/Dec/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 59
    hard E3 0 of 14
    E3 0 of 14
    easy E3 0 of 14
    hard E2 4 of 14
    E2 8 of 14
    easy E2 2 of 14
    hard E1 0 of 14
    E1 0 of 14
    easy E1 0 of 14
    hard 5c 0 of 14
    5c 0 of 14
    easy 5c 0 of 14
    hard 5b 0 of 14
    5b 0 of 14
    easy 5b 0 of 14
    hard 5a 0 of 14
    5a 0 of 14
    easy 5a 0 of 14
    hard 4c 0 of 14
    4c 0 of 14
    easy 4c 0 of 14
    hard 4b 0 of 14
    4b 0 of 14
    easy 4b 0 of 14
    hard 4a 0 of 14
    4a 0 of 14
    easy 4a 0 of 14
    hard 3c 0 of 14
    3c 0 of 14
    easy 3c 0 of 14
    hard 3b 0 of 14
    3b 0 of 14
    easy 3b 0 of 14
    hard 3a 0 of 14
    3a 0 of 14
    easy 3a 0 of 14
    hard 2c 0 of 14
    2c 0 of 14
    easy 2c 0 of 14
    hard 2b 0 of 14
    2b 0 of 14
    easy 2b 0 of 14
    hard 2a 0 of 14
    2a 0 of 14
    easy 2a 0 of 14
    hard ?? 8 of 14
    ?? 6 of 14
    easy ?? 0 of 14
    3 Stars 30 of 31
    2 Stars 1 of 31
    1 Star 0 of 31
    0 Stars 0 of 31
    Bag of ..... 0 of 31

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.