Tangerine Dream Top 50

3 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Zero Hour < Nightmare  |  Goad > Wicked Gravity >>

The first half of this route gives some of the best steep crack climbing around. Higher up the crack is much wider and easier to climb. Climb the twin thin cracks in the lower wall, with increasing difficulty and some haste - don't place too much gear - until a last difficult pull up and left gains a rest. Climb the wide crack above moving left at the top.
Tangerine Dream


Easy to blow it by placing too much gear in the bottom half (I did!) and pumping out before you hit the crux...
Nick Smith - UKC - 08/Jul/05

I did actually carry some big gear for the top, only to find them not as useful as I'd hoped and not really needed - there are quite a few big/medium wires and medium cam placements.
peter milner - 12/Jul/05

Yes. No big gear needed. A fantastic pumpy route. The route keeps you interested after the hard lower section.
Justin Shiels - 03/Jun/06

One of the best pitches anywhere, absolutely fantastic, and definately no big gear needed.
Stephen Pearson - 15/Jun/07

awesome climbing - the top wall while easier is still completely absorbing (and a much needed contrast to the lower wall). the lower cracks give tremendous moves with great gear but not much in the way of rest: aggressive approach recommended.
ksjs - 11/May/08

Aptly titled, a dream of a route. Very safe & therefore a good choice for pushing the boat out - just make sure your stamina training is in order!
Chris Parson - 01/Sep/11

I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when I fell off the crux (soft rock?) and I ended up suspended below my belayer.
ellis - 24/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 46
    hard E5 0 of 16
    E5 0 of 16
    easy E5 1 of 16
    hard E4 11 of 16
    E4 4 of 16
    easy E4 0 of 16
    hard E3 0 of 16
    E3 0 of 16
    easy E3 0 of 16
    hard 6b 0 of 15
    6b 0 of 15
    easy 6b 0 of 15
    hard 6a 2 of 15
    6a 12 of 15
    easy 6a 1 of 15
    hard 5c 0 of 15
    5c 0 of 15
    easy 5c 0 of 15
    3 Stars 15 of 15
    2 Stars 0 of 15
    1 Star 0 of 15
    0 Stars 0 of 15
    Bag of ..... 0 of 15

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