Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Some find this the best climb on the wall, especially if you are tall. Climb the rib right of Barbarella (thread out left) then follow a line of holds up right to a small groove. Climb the groove (microswires and a peg) and make a hard move left to a crack and the first bomber wire. Move left again then back right and up to the break. Arrange gear above, then make an outrageous l-o-n-g move to a good hold with a thread. Finish any way you can above.
There is no need to pre-place a quick draw on the thread, its easy to reach even if your 5' 2" as my second was! Also found some gear before the thread so not as bold as it looks.
you can reach thread from route no need to pre clip, the reach at the top is long! ace line
A third vote for no need to worry about clipping the thread. The wires to back up the peg are better than this description makes it sound. There is a reasonable method for shorter people at the top as well.