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This popular route has two contrasting, high quality pitches. The first pitch is an excellent E1 5b in its own right and from the top you can easily walk off to St Govan's.
1) 5b, 20m. Start 5m right of the corner and climb the wall to reach a vague crack. Follow this to a break and traverse right to another crack. A hard move at the top of this gains a short groove which leads to the ledge.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb the leftwards slanting groove behind the stance, to a ledge. Then follow the steep wall and groove above to the top.
First pitch is tough for E1 5b and bold to start. Second pitch currently has a loose jug which is a key hold/runner making it a scary proposition. Shame because the climbing is good and varied...be careful!
Chad Harrison - 25/May/10
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