<< Diedre Sud < The Right Wall | Ice Breaker > Razorbill >>
This route is best known as a finish to Heart of Darkness but it does have a reasonable 1st pitch. Abseil to the base of Diedre Sud.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse right for 5m then climb up steeply to reach a shallow corner. Follow it to a small ledge on the left. Continue over a bulge, and the groove above, to reach the line of breaks. Move up to another break and traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 5b, 18m. Move rightwards up a flake to gain the fine wide crack which leads to the top.
Only climbed the second pitch (with HoD 1st pitch), it's fantastic but definately merits E1.
Mattress - 06/Jul/05
E1 without a doubt. A HVS leader would be have a pretty torrid time of it on P2.
Tony Holdsworth - 17/Aug/05
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