Flax of Dream

2 Stars
 E2 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Ice Breaker < Razorbill  |  Heart of Darkness > Heart of Darkness/New Morning >>

A good route with some exposed climbing. Start by abseiling to the base of Diedre Sud.
1) 4b, 20m. Traverse right, as for Razorbill, to the ledge below the big corner and belay.
2) 5a, 35m. Climb the corner to the roof (possible belay). Traverse left under the roof then pull around and mantleshelf onto a ledge. Step back right to reach the base of a crack and climb this to the top.
Flax of Dream


This ia a great little line but a bit unbalanced. Its easy peasy up to the 'would be' mantle-shelf but then theres that comitting unprotected trav right and then a long steep wall that just keeps coming at you all the way to the top ! I can see why it gets 5a but it feels more like 5b by the time you'v hauled your ass up to the top ! for what its worth, I found the solo traverse along the crinkley break to the start of the route the most challenging part of the climb ! one could, perhaps, tie the top part of the climb in with an approach from heart of darkness and take a belay mid-way, specially if theres a big sea running ! PS: anyone climbed 'ships that crash' ?
david369 - 13/Oct/09

lovely climbing in lower half up to mantle. From there I went directly right along the break to the crack which is protected but strenuous. The crack i found more like hard 5b at least for a few moves- rope drag not helping! More knackering than most Pembs E3s that I've done, but a great route all the same.
cockers - 30/Jun/12

I assumed 5a was a misprint. Gets 5c in the CC guide, felt like a normal Pembroke E2 5c to me, tough move to get started on the crack.
Jon Stewart - 06/Jul/14

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    Total votes cast 8
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