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An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but technically relatively straightforward but don't underestimate it! Unfortunately the bolts are already showing their age.
1) 5+. Follow the steep (sometimes greasy) rock up the left-hand wall above the deep slot. Belay on bolts on the bridge.
2) 6a+. Climb direct above the belay on good-but-hidden holds - spaced bolts. Hand traverse right to a hanging stance.
3) 6a. Make a tricky move up left then revel in the superb position rising up leftwards to the exit hole
Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.
tbertenshaw - 03/Mar/05
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