Horatio's Horror

2 Stars
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Cook's Rib < Horatio's Direct  |  Heavy Cruiser > Nelson's Nemesis >>

The main groove is taken on excellent jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftward (the tall can bridge it) to gain a square-cut groove. Up this to finish.
FA. Keith Axon 1949


The main groove is easier to layback than to jam. And the top of the corner is a good rest - I know, I was there for 20 minutes when doing Nelson's Nemesis! Every bit as good as the latter route, interest is sustained to the top.
Simon Caldwell - 16/Sep/02

Think about gear placement under roof as rope drag can be significant. Route at top seemed to be back right - not straight up. Probably only worth Severe 4a - but a hard one.
rob king - 28/Jun/03

it is wery polished at the start but things ease with hight. P.S there is no rests
watson - 08/Jul/03

Sorry watson, there most certainly is a rest, as I said I used it at some length. In fact you can see it in Rob's photo.
Simon Caldwell - 08/Jul/03

My comment re: gear under roof was because I, like Simon, spent an awfully long time on the 'rest' failing to put a bit of gear in to protect the traverse..in the end I gave up and all was fine - but I still got a lot of drag on the rope...So I must back up Simon's comments re: 'rest' (assuming you can balance)
Robert A King - 22/Aug/03

Enjoyed this route, a lot, so there.
Ander - 14/Sep/04

Fantastic route, really enjoyed it! It's got everything - a layback (I agree that it's more of a layback than a jamming crack), small ledges, big reaches, slab finish (we managed to finish straight up).

If you've got some small nuts you can place them in the left crack to protect the traverse (as long as you've extended your pro on the right to reduce the drag). I dropped onto a crimp on the left from a bridged position, rather than climbing up and traversing the roof.
Sarah Clough - 10/Apr/05

Almost every bit as good as Nemesis - a great step left under the roof. I would recommend (as with the above comments) laybacking and not jamming, as there's plenty to use if you put a little distance between you and the crack.
Pythonist - 14/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 47
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