Nelson's Nemesis

3 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Horatio's Horror < Heavy Cruiser  |  Tom's Arete > Victory Vice >>

Climb the main corner to the roof as for Horatio's Horror then traverse right, with a crucial foot change on a shiny 'button', to reach the base of the continuation crack. Up this to a ledge and an exit on the left on huge holds.
FA. Keith Axon 1949


I can't understand the grade on this one. To me, VS 4b implies either poor protection or sustained 4b. But this route has only one hard move, protected by above-the-head gear. So it's either VS 4c or HS 4b. Either way, it's superb!
Simon Caldwell - 16/Sep/02

Did it in wet condition - Definate VS 4c in wet! Can imagine that it should be 4b in dry.

One tricky move only needed and the rest is easier.
Stephen Barker - 07/Oct/02

Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
Jon Croxford - 25/Nov/02

Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
Jon Croxford - 25/Nov/02

Excelent route, the pull onto the main face is great and soo exposed
Sean - 21/Feb/03

Hey! lets do all the routes in the wet and give them different grades !!!!
Peter F - 27/Apr/03

Superb moves, not as hard as it looks.
Ander Broadman - 12/Jul/04

I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade
Ander Broadman - 12/Jul/04

I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it.

But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route.
Helix - 04/Oct/04

Didn't see any 'crucial foot swap', just kept feet on the tiny ledge on the rh wall and then a long reach rockover onto the arete. VS 4b good as you'd take a swing into the wall if you fell.
tchnorton - 01/Jun/05

that move across had me sweating
lps - 28/Jul/05

The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag.

Paul Mitchell
paul mitchell - 02/Aug/05

Deserves the hype - great step out into space. Soft VS, 4b, and definitely 3*.
Pythonist - 14/Aug/07

Polished but a very good route. Easy for VS, but too sustained to be a HS.
mark20 - 15/Jun/08

Excellent climb! Not sure which bit is the polished button though. Moves out under the overhang require a positive approach but are very enjoyable.
Baljit Kumar - 14/Jul/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 141
    hard HVS 0 of 48
    HVS 0 of 48
    easy HVS 0 of 48
    hard VS 0 of 48
    VS 16 of 48
    easy VS 17 of 48
    hard HS 15 of 48
    HS 0 of 48
    easy HS 0 of 48
    hard 4c 0 of 48
    4c 0 of 48
    easy 4c 0 of 48
    hard 4b 0 of 48
    4b 0 of 48
    easy 4b 0 of 48
    hard 4a 0 of 48
    4a 0 of 48
    easy 4a 0 of 48
    hard 3c 0 of 48
    3c 0 of 48
    easy 3c 0 of 48
    hard 3b 0 of 48
    3b 0 of 48
    easy 3b 0 of 48
    hard 3a 0 of 48
    3a 0 of 48
    easy 3a 0 of 48
    hard 2c 0 of 48
    2c 0 of 48
    easy 2c 0 of 48
    hard 2b 0 of 48
    2b 0 of 48
    easy 2b 0 of 48
    hard 2a 0 of 48
    2a 0 of 48
    easy 2a 0 of 48
    hard ?? 3 of 48
    ?? 42 of 48
    easy ?? 1 of 48
    hard ?? 2 of 48
    ?? 0 of 48
    easy ?? 0 of 48
    3 Stars 40 of 45
    2 Stars 5 of 45
    1 Star 0 of 45
    0 Stars 0 of 45
    Bag of ..... 0 of 45

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