The Orgasmatron

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< The Bandits < The Rivals  |  El Rincon > Highway >>

A very hard f7C boulder problem gains the undercut flake. The wall and bulge above are climbed much more easily on immaculate rock. The route was originally climbed with an aided start at 7a and has also been climbed by moving in from El Rincon at 7c+.
FA. John Codling 26.8.1986. FFA. Rob Mirfin 5.2010


Has the start been done ?
Robert Mirfin - 22/Mar/05

Apparently the start was done years ago but the climber (possibly Alan Doig) did not climb to the top of the route?? I think Gary Gibson may have done it. There was a decent sidepull low down but this snapped when I was trying it a couple of years ago and it certainly hasn't been done since.
Lee Proctor - 22/Mar/05

The start was done years ago but as I was just messing around I did not have any gear to do the top section. At the time it was harder than all the other routes at Dinbren which I had ...
Alan doig - 05/Apr/06

I had a few goes at the start last summer, felt really hard. I reckon probably a font 7c+ boulder problem.
robert mirfin - 02/May/06

Needs Wires! Only two bolts at the start and a very distant one near the top
Dave Ayton - 29/Apr/07

To add a little clarity, to what appears a slightly cynical audience, the start was done from the floor to where the route eases considerably. There were witnesses about including either John Moulding or Codling ( I can not remember which one - it was a few years ago).
Al Doig - 02/May/09

Managed The Link from El Rincon into this last week - Nice climbing and similar in difficulty to Rivals - bouldery prob start and easy finish - nice
Dave Ayton - 26/Apr/10

Did a free ascent of this from the ground today, a very good boulder problem followed by pleasant climbing above, hard 8a ish I think the start is about V9 shame the top half isn't a bit harder. Well done on this Alan
Robert Mirfin - 04/Jul/10

Good effort Robert nice to see this one get done. It is a pity I am not fit enough to get even close nowadays :)
Al Doig - 05/Jul/10

I repeated this from the ground today. Powerful boulder problem start utilising a narrow pinch and the top is lovely climbing. Hard 8a. Nice one Rob.
Sam Cattell - 29/Jul/12

Glad this one is getting some attention. Nice one Sam
Robert Mirfin - 04/Aug/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard 8b 0 of 2
    8b 0 of 2
    easy 8b 0 of 2
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    easy 7a 0 of 2
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 1 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

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