Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
A good climb. Boulder out the initial wall to a good hold, then move up and tackle the steep bulge above using shallow pockets, dimples and some slopy holds. No sneaking off-route for a rest at this grade.
Not sustained enough to be 8a. The top bulge is really good though.
does this actually try to avoid the crag halfway up before getting to the bulge?
Yes, straight up above the 3rd bolt, to gain a fat pinch at the steepening, then step right.
If climbed direct i think this route warrants 8a.
Some good hard climbing and nice solid rock for a change ;) like the buouxesque crux at the top
There are two variations on this route and they should probably both be described in the description. Climbing the easiest line slightly right of the bolts in the middle is 7c/+. The original sequence going straight up is 8a. This is where the grade confusion comes from.
There seemed to be only one obvious line and one obvious rest on the right which looked like a bit of a cheat I can't get my head around grades these days they seem to vary so much from one venue to the next it would be 7c+ in Buoux maybe I'm just getting old. Great route anyway