| E4 6a|
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The central route on the wall provides a magnificent challenge. Get yourself onto a tiny ledge, just left of the big cave, either from below or above; or start from lower at low tide.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb up left from the ledge to a small roof. Make a very hard move around this to a tiring undercut above. Pull up left (also hard) into another groove then climb up over the overlaps to reach a good stance at the base of a steep corner.
2) 5c, 15m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a monster thread on the very nose of the buttress (you'll see what I mean when you get there!). Step left and climb the wall to the top.
Very pumpy and sustained first pitch, bomber gear but keeps coming at you, top pitch pumpy E3
Gareth H - 08/May/07
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