Rock Idol Top 50

3 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Zeppelin < Hindenburg  |  Joyous Gard > The Strait Gate >>

The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly!
Rock Idol


Really can't believe no one has commented on this route. Oh my God! Where do I begin. If you only ever climb one E1 in your life make it this one. You end up at least 20ft further out than when you started and hardly make an overhanging move. Sensational positions, bomb proof protection, sustained, immaculate rock, interesting throughout - Flawless. You will smile for weeks afterwards just at the thought of this true "Rock Idol". Thanks for the memories Mr Littlejohn.
Pat Wilson - 06/Jun/05

Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars
The Pylon King - 16/Jun/05

It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful).
Paul Evans - 15/Oct/05

Incredible! Totally awesome!

Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around.
Virgil Scott - 26/Oct/05

Useful to know that you can do a short rising traverse in from the Straite Gate cave to belay well above the high tide point.
GrahamD - 05/May/09

A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected, loads of rests - what's the E1 for, the look of it?
Jon Stewart - 05/Sep/11

This is definitely the best E1 I have ever led...... and agree that it could possibly be the best in Britain! Great holds and gear all the way..... the only problem is keeping enough back to finish the route. The crux is intimidating but as soon as you commit the good holds just keep on coming;just use your feet well! AMAZING.
Amie - 28/May/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Pembroke

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 71
    hard E2 0 of 24
    E2 0 of 24
    easy E2 0 of 24
    hard E1 0 of 24
    E1 18 of 24
    easy E1 5 of 24
    hard HVS 1 of 24
    HVS 0 of 24
    easy HVS 0 of 24
    hard 5b 0 of 24
    5b 0 of 24
    easy 5b 3 of 24
    hard 5a 14 of 24
    5a 7 of 24
    easy 5a 0 of 24
    hard 4c 0 of 24
    4c 0 of 24
    easy 4c 0 of 24
    3 Stars 23 of 23
    2 Stars 0 of 23
    1 Star 0 of 23
    0 Stars 0 of 23
    Bag of ..... 0 of 23

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.