Black Bastard Top 50

3 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< While the Cat's Away < Black Wall  |  Black Wall Direct > Black is Beautiful >>

The best route on the wall with lots of fine climbing on good rock. Climb to a low peg and move directly up to a thin crack system. Excellent technical climbing up this gains a break. Follow the wall above, past a peg, to the broken band of rock. Head directly up this to below a white-stained crack and then step right to below another crack. Step up to reach the crack and the top.
FA. Doug Kerr, Pete Stacey 1.6.1987


Did this the other week, but didn't have a guidebook, so finished directly up the top wall between the correct finish and the finish of Black Wall. Anyone have any idea what the finish was? It felt harder than the crack lower down.
Neil Stabbs - 21/Aug/06

Its high E2/low E3 but a little sketchy on the gear.
Themaninblack - 22/Aug/06

solid e2. gear is definately hard fought and never felt truely secure but it has two pegs. lovely balancy crux.
paulr - 01/Oct/06

Disagree - though gear was absolutely bomb proof except through the easy bit.
tim evans - 19/Jul/07

Good direct route and exactly right at the grade. Some of the wires are fiddly and cams are useful. The crux is a distinct sequence but other sections maintain interest including the finish.
Fiend - 03/Sep/07

Again, exactly right for the grade and certainly not high E2/low E3. A distinct crux section but otherwise steady climbing. Gear seemed to be pretty good to me and not hard fought for
C.E. Moreton - 12/Oct/09

Some good moves but a little contrived
andy m - 04/Sep/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E3 0 of 10
    E3 0 of 10
    easy E3 0 of 10
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 9 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard E1 1 of 10
    E1 0 of 10
    easy E1 0 of 10
    hard 6a 0 of 10
    6a 0 of 10
    easy 6a 0 of 10
    hard 5c 1 of 10
    5c 7 of 10
    easy 5c 1 of 10
    hard 5b 1 of 10
    5b 0 of 10
    easy 5b 0 of 10
    3 Stars 5 of 9
    2 Stars 3 of 9
    1 Star 1 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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