Escape/Boot Hill

3 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Hey Turkey Neck < Weston's Chimney  |  Trick or Treat > The Groove >>

A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting all the same. Climb the greasy chimney and monkey along the break to the arete. Follow this with crucial moves on the left side (the very tall can teeter up the front) to reach a fat fluting and the final blank wall with its superb hidden jug.
FA. Geoff Sutton 1951. Rediscovered by Tom Proctor in 1971


The description of this route in the guide is nonsense, if you go up the 'greasy chimney' and Monkey along the break to the arete it probably is the route that Geoff Sutton climbed in 1951,but you miss out the crux. I followed Tom on the first ascent of this route and we started on the right, on clean rock, the break then brings you out below the crux not above it as the way Geoff Sutton did it. I do not believe that GS did the route Boot Hill as we know it and why is it described this way anyhow, its absolute nonsense. If you were going to climb Boot Hill why would you go up that grotty chimney?
Al Evans - 17/May/02

Boot Hill does climb the gully to reach the lowest break, any lower and you are on the face of Bootboys. Go and look,
Chris Craggs - 17/May/02

think yo deffo traverse out on the lowest break. if you're not getting 2/3 hands off rests then you've gone out too high. The slab bit was very reack for me and i'm 6'1! superb route.
Davep - 06/Sep/03

"crucial moves on the left-hand side" can be replaced by "desperate slapping on the holdless arete moves" ;) Eeek!
Nick Smith - 08/Sep/03

Didn't think it was particulary soft for the grade. The middle slab section was pretty tricky really though I suppose your never far from good jams and gear. The final moves are joyous
Dave N - 28/Jun/04

E2 5c and 3 stars. Or more... Awesome route, from when you start on the traverse, every single move is good - my favourite being the one just after the tenuous crux - and the position is great too. A few good rests and perfect protection make it standard E2.
Fiend_banned - 13/Mar/05

Lead this as my 2nd E3, and it's worth every penny. Tried the tall way (Migod is that gripping when you realise you cannot reach and have to teeter back a wee ways) round the arete suited much better. If you came off this you'd rattle a ways down that gully.
Matt - 18/May/05

Awesome Route, very easy for grade, Bomber gear and struggle to see why it gets E3 rather than E2? No harder than Fern Hill! Reach from the ledge is committing though....
north_country_boy - 31/May/05

Well I am 5' 6" and no choice but to lean off that dimple and tip toe up the arete. Gave me a good feeling to reach the break.What follows is good move after good position. Al Evans is right of course. RIP Tom.
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 58
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