Suicide Wall Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Requiem < The Long Distance Runnel  |  Suicide Wall Direct > Oak Tree Chimney >>

A stunning classic following an impressive line of cracks up the steep wall. Climb the tough crack, past the tree stump, and jam onwards to an optional stance in the Bower. Move out right and climb the wall on finger holds then a crack to a niche. Layback the crack on the left to the final overhang and finish with gusto.
FA. Peter Harding 1946


The route is and always will be HVS 5b for me. That jam to reach the Bower is desperate for most and the move out from the bower is not much easier.
PS I inadvertantly voted for E1 when I think its about 3/4 up the HVS graded list and the system wont let me 'unvote'.
Steve - 13/Dec/01

I found this route hard. When I was regularly leading E2 I had to take 4 rests - seconding!
Ian - 07/Mar/03

Fantastic Route - Probably the best HVS in Peak.

It is Very pumpy route.
Steve &quot;CragHead&quot; Barke - 11/Jul/03

good solid HVS 5b not too pumpy (after all there are rests) brilliant!
mark s davies - 23/Aug/03

Great route, top end HVS 5b
Simon.A - 15/Apr/04

definitely the best hvs in the peak on grit - possibly the best e1?
difficult move jamming to reach the bower, especially when you look up and see what's in store - much easier with large friends / hexes for the top cracks
hans - 31/Jul/04

VERY pumpy! There are rests, but they're either really uncomfotable or poor. Best climbed as on long pitch - take a lot of gear!
jamiemoss - 30/Sep/04

Worth E1 in a single pitch, HVS if you split it at the belay
Matt - 18/May/05

great route all i took was 6 cams biggest been a size 2 when i got to the big layback flake i had a friend 1 underneath it was a bit runout at this id say E1 definately
alix - 04/Sep/05

I'd also say E1 for the full pitch, hvs split. Whatever the grade, it is an utterly belting route, though that jam to reach the bower never feels any less sketchy. Best hvs/E1 on grit me thinks - of the ones I've done...
bomb - 12/Sep/05

Never E1... It's one of the best HVS pitches in the country never mind on the grit. Rockfax.. please don't updgrade this route.. please?
Derbyshire Ben - 14/Sep/05

Rockfax have downgraded more routes around HVS than upgraded I reckon.
I did it one long pitch, seemed no reason nto to other than to have a rest. Accordingly I got pumped silly and had to rest about 10 feet below the start of the top layback flake. The crux is only hard 5a I reckon if you can jam, but its still very very top end for the grade, and theres probably another 5a btit at the end of the traverse.
Amsoutely awesome route though.
Si dH - 11/Dec/05

should say no reason to split it other than to have a rest.
Si dH - 11/Dec/05

Did it in the rain, sleet and snow yesterday. My god it was a struggle. It just went on for ever! A bit wet in places too.
Jus - 27/Feb/06

dont think i'll ever be taking my missus up it!!
Great, hard and pumpy HVS but definately worth the 5A grade.
monkey - 11/Jun/06

Cracking route top end HVS cause there is good gear if you can hang on to place it! Climbed in two pitches and i managed to flash it on both leads, V. glad too reach the top tho, Great Route!
Adam Moroz - 25/Sep/06

Tough for the grade but no more than HVS 5a.
C.E. Moreton - 10/Oct/06

A very special route, better even than Hardings Super Direct Finish and his Valkyrie, he certainly left a proud mark.

Solid HVS 5a. Slack jams into the bower. Glory thereafter, good rests earned. Lead in the rain but the entire route was bone dry.
DuzWalker - 07/Feb/08

I sweated more on this than on Fern Hill. An absolutely desperate HVS, E1 in my book. Great lead.
Compo - 02/Jun/08

HVS, E1, does it matter that you can't unvote steve, u pansey!! i am uncomfortable with your comment too 'mark s davies' if that is your real name, stop boasting aboout your ability to find rests... you obviously have a miniscule penis!!
Dohnny Jawes - 02/Jun/08

Every millimetre is mint, easy for thugs.
Jon Leighton - 27/Sep/09

Brilliant route, atrocious guidebook description and grade. Clearly 5b for the moves to the Bower, the 'abrasive crack' at the start doesn't exist and the moves out of the Bower are not described correctly. Maybe if the guide writers checked that their hazy recollections of the route matched up with reality rather than waffling on about 'nettle covered fingerholds' - WTF? - we'd have a more useful guide...
Andy Hobson - 07/Oct/12

Bloody hard and intimidating at the grade. I did it in a single pitch on sight and was closer to falling off it then E3's in the past. I'm bad at jamming but the crack up to the bower and the traverse then move up after was not 5a. very relieved to reach the top clean.
billy r - 28/May/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 220
    hard E1 0 of 78
    E1 0 of 78
    easy E1 10 of 78
    hard HVS 53 of 78
    HVS 15 of 78
    easy HVS 0 of 78
    hard VS 0 of 78
    VS 0 of 78
    easy VS 0 of 78
    hard 5c 0 of 74
    5c 0 of 74
    easy 5c 0 of 74
    hard 5b 0 of 74
    5b 0 of 74
    easy 5b 55 of 74
    hard 5a 12 of 74
    5a 7 of 74
    easy 5a 0 of 74
    3 Stars 66 of 68
    2 Stars 2 of 68
    1 Star 0 of 68
    0 Stars 0 of 68
    Bag of ..... 0 of 68

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