Brain Box

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Private Idaho < Generation of Swine  |  Aphrodizziness > Oxygen >>

Pull up to a good hold at the lip of the roof using an undercut. Climb the short awkward lower wall to reach a good ledge beneath the upper bulge. Move up and follow a line of undercuts rightwards to better holds. Finish by moving up and then left to the Generation of Swine lower-off.
FA. Gary Gibson 18.5.1992


Goes free without the sapling if you are tall enough . Reach off a small undercling to the good hold, dont think it would change the grade at all. Have`nt done the rest yet though.
Robert Mirfin - 30/Jul/06

Did the rest of this without the tree or any aid, A few holds came off here and there, hard 7b+ maybe soft 7c, very good route hard to read higher up though maybe just because of the lack of chalk.
Robert Mirfin - 07/Aug/06

I did it free when I first did it and the sapling was tiny. The move off the undercut in the roof just required an enormous reach. I did it first red-point with Gary Dickinson when we first did it. I was disappointed it was mentioned requiring aid in the guide as it was never done like that.
Themaninblack - 14/Aug/06

I dont blame you for being disappointed,was a bit suprised when I found it could be done without too much trouble. Good effort, will be up there again soon to try some of the other routes.
Robert Mirfin - 14/Aug/06

Gary, sorry for misrepresenting your route – I used the tree when I climbed the route. On the sportsclimbs website it says “gain the upper wall from a tree and pursue a curving line with great moves”. However you do it it's a great route. Lee
Lee Proctor - 01/Sep/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 2
    hard 7c 0 of 1
    7c 0 of 1
    easy 7c 0 of 1
    hard 7b+ 1 of 1
    7b+ 0 of 1
    easy 7b+ 0 of 1
    hard 7b 0 of 1
    7b 0 of 1
    easy 7b 0 of 1
    3 Stars 1 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.