Progressions of Power
| E3 5c|
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A nicely varied route with two good pitches: the first pitch is a little bold and warrants E3; the second involves well-protected technical bridging at E2 but probably has a harder move. The upper pitch can be done on its own by approaching along the mid-height terrace.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the bold, slabby wall to the overhang. Traverse leftwards, using undercuts, to a slight rib beneath a crack (hidden peg on the left). Pull up into the crack and follow this to the terrace above. Belay at the bottom of the corner/groove. The crack can also be reached direct - Scratting Hen Start, at bold E4 6a.
2) 5c, 11m. Layback and bridge the immaculate groove to a small overhang and pull through this on its left-hand side to the top. The right-hand finish past the overhang is substantially easier at HVS 5a and worth doing on its own.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 22.8.1980
"a little bold" seems like a right understatement to me! i couldn't get anything in until i was below the bulges. very bold might be better! the top pitch is excellent.
martin k - 31/Jul/06
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