1 Stars
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Colonel Bogey < La Belle et la Bete  |  Helicon > Chewemoff >>

A popular route with a short and technical section on the first pitch.<br/>1) 5c, 18m. Climb a groove, then make a hard, steep pull up left through a bulge. At the break, traverse right to a belay on the nose.<br/>2) 5a, 12m. Pull onto the upper wall and finish straight up the thin crack.
FFA. Keith Myhill 1971. FA. (2pts) Chris Jackson, Geoff Birtles 1965


Move right at the break to belay in superb position on the 'perch', then finish straight up.
An excellent route.
Rob Woon - 04/Sep/00

The first pitch has a lot of fixed gear; peg, stuck cam and threads. Easy up to a tricky move exiting left over the bulge and then easier ground to the belay.
Ropeboy - 29/Sep/04

Amazing route. Real 'High Tor' esque exposure. Found the traverse across to the belay full value. Some great moves in an incredible setting
Mat Galvin - 10/Sep/06

Done in a one-er, this makes a great tough E1 (**even?), with bags of climbing, great exposure and a good, well protected crux. What with the atrocious scramble to get on it, if done in 2 pitches the faff may start to outweigh the fun?
Jon Stewart - 24/Jun/09

Nice route with a beefy crux on big undercuts. There is currently a sling and crab to lower off at the top (to avoid the big traverse out right) if you want.
mark20 - 25/Jul/11

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