Virgin on the Loose

 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Easy Skanking < The Lover's Leap  |  Smoothlands > Ming the Merciless >>

2 bolts and a peg mark the line. The climbing is bold and technical and the route is seldom done. Not in current guidebook.
FA. A.Pollitt, M.Pretty 5.11.84


This has now been re-equipped by Zippy to give a nice 7a+ up non-polished rock, a novelty for the Peak. Start as for the Little Plum belay and go up and right, very well bolted. Lower off the 6th bolt at a bail biner. The peg belay in the main break is crap and I believe the E6 originally finished on the lower ledge by the 6th bolt anyway. Don't lower off the 5th bolt which is next to the original antique bolt on Flycatcher as you miss out a hard move going up and left.
Ted Kingsnorth - 31/Mar/08

Ted is this not the new route of zippy's King Of Ming (7b+)?? It Has an upper pitch as well. I've done this as well as most of the other new stuff. Probably more like 7b for the whole route i reckon.
Jon Clark - 08/Apr/08

Maybe you're right, I think this route covers new ground so ignore my comments above about it being a re-equipped old route! It seemed to be about right at 7a+ for the first pitch as you can shake out fine before the crux. I look forward to checking out all the other stuff here, a nice little venue in the sun!
Ted Kingsnorth - 09/Apr/08

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