2 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Dies Irae < Stuff the Turkey  |  Gaspera > Kink >>

A good powerful line through the underlaps. An old bolt protects the crux, which is easier for the tall. After that it gets very pumpy, though on big holds.
FA. Tom Proctor, Steve Bancroft 1977


very reach dependent on the crux. if you are tall it is easy if you are a short arse like me the move at the top of the groove by the bolt is dead hard but dead safe
philip smith - 05/Nov/00

Did it last night, traversed right from the bolt and made a very long reach to a small hold, then another hard move to get established. After that it really is jugs jugs jugs. Not sure if I found the easiest way of doing the crux, but definitely very 6b that way, and hard to see where the E5 comes from, so I'd give it E4 6b, just maybe E5 to onsight the 6b crux, can't see how reach would make that much of a difference, you'd really have to be an ape. Hint: it's actually quite reasonable to climb back to the ground after clipping the bolt -I did it twice before going for it.
Adrian Berry - 12/Jun/03

It was E5 6a for me when I did 20 years ago. Didn't have a two and half Friend for the undercut.
Gary Gibson - 12/Jun/03

It may have been E5 6a for Gary back in the day, but I reckon it deserves 6b. It's a hard lock, even if you're tall. It would be E4 6b to the jugs, but with the powerful undercutting after the crux, I'd say it definitely deserves E5.
Tom B - 18/Jun/03

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.