Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 52
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.<br/>1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, Friend 3 useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick ...<br/>2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows.
I presume the pegs are in good order for this grade????
The pegs are a bit dodgy but they are between the 2 crux's on easier ground and you should be all right. There is an in-situ sling that you can clip to protect the reachy crux.
The pegs are originals - look at the FA date and ponder!
Good Grief, and we thought they were a bit strange when we first did it all those years ago Chris!!!!20+????
A good(?) 'new' peg has been added to the lower wall some years ago. The bendy peg before the move right is (Tom's?) original?
The bendy peg can be backed up by a good threaded wire.