Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 38
The right wall of the corner has some fluttery moments, with poor gear. High in the grade.
Probably worth E2 if you stick strictly to the runners on route.
A route that tests gear placing skills more than climbing ability. I'd agree with Roger Whetton, could be E2 if you stick rigidly to the line of the route for gear. If you go slightly off, then top end E1
On re-examination the holds seem to have got larger and the (on route) gear much better - it seemed really like E1 5b this time.
Using only the gear (opposing nuts with a sling and a cam) in the main horizontal break, I found this quite a bit stiffer than the neighbouring St Peter.
The crux is getting off the ground, then ok gear in the horizontal and a good nut out left (but still on line) and a couple of tricky moves up and right to some more gear and an easier finish. Felt mid E1. Might need a clean after someone pulled a flake off high up.
There's a loose flake in the middle of the wall - good enough to pull on gently and stand on for now, but it won't last for ever. Handle with care!