Double Scotch

1 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Jam Sandwich < Traffic Jam  |  Cointreau > Thrutch >>

The crack and big pockets on the right lead to an overlap (thread and weird rest) and a pumpy finale up the short wall. Escaping right is easier but is only for those lacking in scruples.
FA. Martin Barnicott 1960s


Seems to have lost a foothold at the start, now hard 5C.
Andy - 04/Jun/01

Yes, the start is harder than it used to be. Don't forget there is a good thread in the niche before moving up and left to the finishing wall.
Colin Hughes - 18/Aug/02

Bit "eliminatey" at the top but the crack at the start is surprisingly easy, closer to 5a than 5c
Ashley - 07/Sep/03

Simon King usually found in Situ!
James Thacker - 17/May/05

Fantastic route, worth 2* possibly. Every hold is a jug and there's a hands off rest whilst placing the bomber thread.
Iggy_B - 02/Jun/06

Really rather good. Satisfyingly steep and super-safe, surely the obligatory wall finish (exposed but positive) makes it a solid 2 stars??
Fiend - 07/Aug/06

As Fiend says, a great route if done with the left-had finish is included. Deceptively pumpy, but no hard moves. The start is never 5c...
Dave Johnson - 27/Jun/09

Care required at the finish! There is a LARGE creaky block at the top of the route, on the way to the belay.
Ian Milward - 27/Jun/09

Really good, two stars. I reckon the grade for this and Medusa need swapping!
Jon Leighton - 09/Apr/10

The tree isn't there any more - looks like it hasn't been for a while either.
The start may be 5c if you can't reach the good hold for your right hand from the ground, but that's being about as generous as the grade. It's a bit pumpy but so well protected that E2 seems a bit over the top - especially with the hands off rest half way.
Quite a good route but too escapable to be worth 2 stars.
Medusa E2? I'd love to believe it for the times I got pumped and failed but it isn't. You just need to keep believing the good holds are coming and keep going.
Alex Elsworth - 21/Apr/10

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