Jam Top 50

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Mousefolk < Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth  |  Chips with Everything > Quality Family Day >>

Climb the jamming crack - that doesn't necessarily need to be jammed - right of Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth.
FA. Unknown. Bolted in 2002.


brilliant fun if your into jamming.
Steph - 01/Aug/05

I have climbed this many times and I don't use any jams. There are plenty of good holds just inside the crack. Getting onto the ledge at the top is tricky though.
Adam Perrett - 02/Sep/05

nice climbing - couldn't have led it at this grade which i can indoors, but a nice route to second. muddy approach which can cause probs but would recommend the little ledge to sit and put your rock shoes on if you prefer not to have slimy shoes!
me - 06/Nov/05

Jamming for whimps. why bolt a crack that would eat cams?
SC - 08/Nov/05

very nice climb. the top isn't that bad, but would be better with less mud. overall nice climb.
airbournegrapefruit - 07/Dec/05

Why go to Portland and complain about a bolted crack?
Steve McQueen - 08/Dec/05

Adam's right and SC can please never visit Portland again (I'll say it time and time again - who cares how a route is protected? - you're supposed to be climbing!)
You don't need to jam, there's good jugs. A good easy route.
Ben Thorne - 15/Jan/06

Why not bolt a crack that would eat cams should be the question? Cams are bloomin expensive - bolting makes it more accessible and less exclusive in this case. A good thing for those starting out IMO. When you are more experienced you can then buy cams and swan around town using them. Portland is a sport venue in case you hadn't noticed..
Wilbur - 17/Jan/06

I don't see the point in trad climbing at portland. I'm pretty sure that this is as weird as bolting stanage to most folk!
CurlyStevo - 04/Feb/06

A lovely and enjoyable warm-up route spot on for the grade. No jamming needed although I did use an arm bar. Glad it's been bolted, It's Portland FFS! Anyway, I don't have any cams big enough to fit half of this crack.
Clinger - 10/Feb/06

Great climb, getting into the ledge was fun
Ahmad - 30/May/06

Getting onto the ledge is not fun. Realising that you stood up in the wrong place and having to downclimb then come back up! Also pretty sandy at the moment after all this rain!
sue lawley - 17/Jul/07

Good easy route. No need to jam plenty of big holds. Long cowstail needed.
Maxwell Fulton - 21/Jun/08

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