Fay Top 50

3 Stars
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Pacemaker < Sunscape  |  Diastole > Coronary Country >>

A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are fast deteriorating but alternative gear options are available. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
Move up the cracks and then head diagonally right across the wall on good holds to another left-trending line of quartz cracks, good spike runner above. Climb the cracks to a wider section and follow this to below some thin cracks that head up the wall. Climb the wall and thin cracks, past pegs, to a short thin crack that heads slightly right to a break. Follow the break left to a niche and the top just above.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Mick Hardwick 15.5.1986


Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced.
Al Evans - 02/Apr/06

The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb!
(P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.)

Dave Musgrove - 02/Apr/06

Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4!
Dave Kerr - 14/Aug/06

The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about.
Richard White - 26/Sep/06

Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though.
felix - 26/Sep/06

This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you!
Neville Contractor - 01/Aug/07

Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

Superb route, thought this was about E3 5c not e5 as it says in my uide. Big holds and bomber gear all the way; path!
robin richmond - 27/Feb/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 62
    hard E5 0 of 21
    E5 0 of 21
    easy E5 5 of 21
    hard E4 4 of 21
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    3 Stars 18 of 20
    2 Stars 2 of 20
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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