| VS 4b|
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Two contrasting pitches - the first requires care and the second is a testing exercise up a wide and overhanging cleft. Start at the base of a broad buttress that has two small caves at 7m.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the steep buttress right of the two small caves on sloping holds to slabby rock, move up the slab and then traverse left to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge beneath the overhanging corner and belay.
2) 4b, 31m. Climb the corner behind the stance, above a small cave, to where it starts to overhang. Climb the overhanging corner either up the wide crack or on its right wall, both options are committing. Above, easy climbing leads to the top.
FA. Nev Hannaby, Tom Patey 7.1960
Watch out on the first pitch. If it ever was 4a, it is not now. VS is right though.
Martin Ladbury - 03/Feb/09
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