Colonel's Arete Top 50

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Mucky Gully < Reverse Cleft  |  Leviathan > Extendible Arete >>

An excellent expedition up the large subsidiary buttress just left of the main face. Start at a short mossy looking wall left of a large vegetated gully and just right of a crack.
1) 12m. Climb the wall on improving holds and at its top work leftwards towards the arete and belay.
2) 10m. Move up the broad face of the arete past ledges and flakes to a belay on a good ledge below a prominent bent tree.
3) 14m. Climb up to a ledge either directly past the bent tree or via a crack just to its left. Climb the steep crack which rises from the ledge. Once the first moves are made, better holds follow, then move up and left to a tree belay.
4) 9m. Climb the exposed face above the tree and bridge left over a gap to the top, this is the top pitch of Reverse Cleft.
FA. Jim Moulton, Skinner Saunders 7.1948


Very good and very varied. The start of the second pitch and the crux wall below the tree belay can both seem a little fierce...
D Berry - 02/Jul/05

I thought it was rather discontinuous. A bit of a scramble with a few VDiff boulder problems along the way. Nice situation though.
victim of mathematics - 08/Jul/05

Yet another Dewerstone Classic that should be on every new leaders tick list. Some nice and steep problems along a rambling arete that pops you up onto a fantastic view point.
Craig Cook - 15/Aug/05

Great route with some tricky moves, but why would anyone climb it in four pitches? We linked the first and second together and likewise the third and fourth. Not much drag and it meant less faffing and more routes at this excellent crag!
majormajormajormajor - 23/Jan/06

One of the very best climbs I have ever done.
The jamming crak on the third pitch was entertaining for Vdiff and getting off the final pinnacle was hairy, but just small enough to fit a 240cm sling over.
sam_walker - 12/Mar/06

A good outing especially for a novice leader, I did it in 3 pitches by linking the first two. A fair bit of exposure for a Vdiff, but good gear, and you don’t have to use the tree (that’s struggling anyway) on the last pitch as there is gear up the left of it.
chris colebrooke - 02/May/06

Really surprised by the votes on this one. A few nice moves, but mostly quite ordinary and with very little sense of even being on an arete. Needle Arete at the same grade is in a different league!
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 23
    hard HVD 0 of 11
    HVD 0 of 11
    easy HVD 0 of 11
    hard VD 2 of 11
    VD 8 of 11
    easy VD 1 of 11
    hard Diff 0 of 11
    Diff 0 of 11
    easy Diff 0 of 11
    3 Stars 7 of 12
    2 Stars 4 of 12
    1 Star 0 of 12
    0 Stars 1 of 12
    Bag of ..... 0 of 12

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.