Vala Top 50

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Leviathan < Extendible Arete  |  Central Groove > Scimitar Direct >>

The staggered overlaps on the left wall of the dominating corner of Central Groove. Start at the base of the corner.
Climb Central Groove for 10m and access the overlaps. Follow these to a pull over onto the cracked wall and the belay ledge a short distance above. Abseil off.
FA. Brian Shackleton, Pat Mellor 1963


The first ascent of Vala was an onsight lead without any protection. I got to the main overlap and pulled off a necklace of machine nuts and tried to slot one into the flaired crack without success. I could feel my strength ebbing so I decided to go for it!
Frank Cannings did the second ascent and brayed a peg into the flaired crack.
Brian Shackleton - 07/Nov/05

The overhanging section looks really intimidating but you can save yourself a lot of effort with some nifty footwork to keep you in balance. Save your strength for that final pull out from the overhang and you'll be skipping all the way to the top.
Albie Niedojadlo - 04/Jul/06

What a great route - the undercuts and laybacks are perfect!!

Careful footwork needed, and great feeling of exposure as you move up to the top overhang.

Last move is spectacular - careful footwork again makes it easy(er).

Amasing first ascent - not sure if I could do that without my cams!
Jay Jackson - 06/Jun/07

Short but good line with a good honest style of climbing.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 15
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