Central Groove Top 50

3 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Extendible Arete < Vala  |  Scimitar Direct > Fruitflancase >>

A truly wonderful climb - they don't come much better. The climbing is intimidating but straightforward and very well-protected. Start directly beneath the dominating corner.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb the short polished wall to the base of the corner, which is followed all the way to the capping overlap. Traverse rightwards to the arete and a large block-belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb up and then rightwards to a ledge. Move right to below a well defined corner (possible belay). Climb the fine corner to the top, the technical crux of the route.
FA. Jim Simpson 5.2.1949


Superb. The first pitch is as good as it gets and the finnish is a fitting climax, just a shame about the scrappy section above the belay (which is in an excelent position).

At the pitch though take a look at what the top of the obvious block is attached to the rest of the rock by...should this worry you there are excelent large nut and hex placements in the cracks to the right.
D Berry - 02/Jul/05

Probably one of the best routes of this grade in the country. Plenty of gear and a steady head will prevail, just when it gets stiff a few moves later and it eases. Delightful right rising traverse to arete belay. The second pitchs final layback completes a classic.
Craig Cook - 15/Aug/05

My first lead at the Dewerstone - doesn't come much better! Have lost count of the amount of times I've climbed it now! Still brilliant though. The top pitch can be made less scrappy by traversing right from the stance then climbing a crack almost to the foot of the last corner. Unfortunately a bit of polished at the start now...
Jay Jackson - 06/Jun/07

Great position for a severe, great holds, great setting, just great period.
Iain Thow - 20/Dec/08

It would be useful if the guide mentioned that the final corner on pitch 2 is the same as the final pitch of CC Ordinary - that we we could have arranged things so that different people led it each time!
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 52
    hard VS 0 of 18
    VS 0 of 18
    easy VS 0 of 18
    hard HS 3 of 18
    HS 15 of 18
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    hard 4b 1 of 17
    4b 13 of 17
    easy 4b 1 of 17
    hard 4a 1 of 17
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    3 Stars 16 of 17
    2 Stars 1 of 17
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