Climbers' Club Ordinary Top 50

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gideon < Climbers' Club Direct  |  Scimitar Variations > Route B >>

The easiest way up the Dewerstone's most impressive wall is a fine series of pitches. The first pitch is serious and requires care. Start on the right of the face at the base of a small gully.
1) 4b, 24m. Climb up and traverse left to some dubious flakes. Move left, using them with great care, then climb up left to an overhanging corner. Move up this for 2m and then make a blind move rightwards, around a rib, into a parallel corner. Move up to a good stance.
2) 4b, 20m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right. Move up to a widening and traverse leftwards using a thin black crack to a good ledge-belay beneath a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 8m. Climb the magnificently-positioned corner to the top.
FA. David Cox, Rennie Bere 2.9.1935


Classic rock that will not disappoint - Pitch 1 is intimidating from the floor, careful traversing that will take micro wires for confidence. Its hard to believe the infamous swing right out of the niche for the 'blind' jug is really 4b. Committing and at the point of no return for the short but very satisfying. The next two pitches are by contrast much simpler but no less enjoyable. Stop looking at it, get on it!
Craig Cook - 15/Aug/05

Due to rock fall the moves into the niche on the 1st pitch have changed. Haven't climbed it yet, but heard that it now seems more difficult than before.
Jay Jackson - 07/Jun/07

Didn't rate this at all great effort for 1935 but a crappy route in my opinion and my partners. Pitch 1 Bold and the gear is over/behind loose flakes, then a rockfall has affected the move around the arete now around 5a. Pitch 2 is Mostly CC Direct then finishes up Central Groove. Don't Bother with this The Direct is Only slighty harder, safer and a far superior climb.
Michael - 28/Jan/08

Climbed this again last night and thoroughly enjoyed it. The traverse of the first pitch is not well protected, but the moves are quite straightforward and, well, it is VS4b. The blind slot round the rib can be seen from the ground and, once you know it is there, 4b seems fair. A committing move nonetheless. You can do pitch 2 and 3 as one quite easily with double ropes. The traverse leftwards and final corner make this line a worthy alternative to the Direct finish.
Martin Ladbury - 19/May/10

A brilliant route, definitely 3 stars. No idea where the rockfall was but there's nothing harder than 4b on the whole route. The blind move round the corner on pitch 1 took me ages to work out (couldn't decide whether to go high or low) but once I committed it was easy, no more than 4a.
The flakes on pitch 1 didn't seem particularly worrying to me, there are worse on many mountain routes.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard HVS 0 of 9
    HVS 0 of 9
    easy HVS 1 of 9
    hard VS 1 of 9
    VS 7 of 9
    easy VS 0 of 9
    hard HS 0 of 9
    HS 0 of 9
    easy HS 0 of 9
    hard 4c 0 of 9
    4c 0 of 9
    easy 4c 0 of 9
    hard 4b 0 of 9
    4b 0 of 9
    easy 4b 0 of 9
    hard 4a 0 of 9
    4a 0 of 9
    easy 4a 0 of 9
    hard 3c 0 of 9
    3c 0 of 9
    easy 3c 0 of 9
    hard 3b 0 of 9
    3b 0 of 9
    easy 3b 0 of 9
    hard 3a 0 of 9
    3a 0 of 9
    easy 3a 0 of 9
    hard 2c 0 of 9
    2c 0 of 9
    easy 2c 0 of 9
    hard 2b 0 of 9
    2b 0 of 9
    easy 2b 0 of 9
    hard 2a 0 of 9
    2a 0 of 9
    easy 2a 0 of 9
    hard ?? 0 of 9
    ?? 0 of 9
    easy ?? 2 of 9
    hard ?? 5 of 9
    ?? 2 of 9
    easy ?? 0 of 9
    3 Stars 6 of 10
    2 Stars 3 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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