Aviation Top 50

3 Stars
 E1 5b

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Dartmoor's enduring classic gives sustained and engrossing climbing on perfect rock. Start at a short, square-cut pillar below a steep flake-crack.
1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake-crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake-crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier, slabby climbing and the summit.
FA. Dave Bassett, Harry Cornish 9.1961


Err why the downgrade?
Matt_b - 30/Jun/05

When I did this a couple of years ago, it was E1.
Best done as 1 long pitch.
Paul - 25/Jul/05

It still is E1 5b,well it was was July 2005
jjc - 14/Aug/05

Don't understand the drips - the 1983 guide gives the route HVS 5a, and the 1999 guide gives it E1 5b. My guess is it's still HVS but 5b might be a better indication of the technicalities of the first pitch.
Clive Wilson - 02/Sep/05

That should be 1995 guide, apologies!
Clive Wilson - 02/Sep/05

Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
chris jones - 15/Jun/06

Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
Dave Kerr - 14/Aug/06

It's HVS 5A. Just watch the barn-door off the first pitch and you're away. Too much upgrading going on these days. It's a Dartmoor HVS and, like a grit HVS - it's bound to be hard!
Stan - 16/Aug/06

HVS 5b feels right. The initial thuggy moves are harder than 5a but very safe. Difficulties in the second pitch aren't superbly protectable but they are very short lived.
Jon Leighton - 30/Jul/07

I'm a wimp. E1 5b.
Owen WG - 24/Oct/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 80
    hard E2 0 of 27
    E2 0 of 27
    easy E2 0 of 27
    hard E1 0 of 27
    E1 0 of 27
    easy E1 16 of 27
    hard HVS 2 of 27
    HVS 9 of 27
    easy HVS 0 of 27
    hard 5c 0 of 27
    5c 0 of 27
    easy 5c 0 of 27
    hard 5b 2 of 27
    5b 19 of 27
    easy 5b 2 of 27
    hard 5a 4 of 27
    5a 0 of 27
    easy 5a 0 of 27
    3 Stars 24 of 26
    2 Stars 2 of 26
    1 Star 0 of 26
    0 Stars 0 of 26
    Bag of ..... 0 of 26

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