Helmut Schmitt

2 Stars
 E6 6b

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Often top-roped, but better as a testing lead if you are up to it. Climb a small groove in the arete, then move right along the break (direct is a fingery 6c). Up again to the first overlap, then pull over at a small groove. At the top overlap the hidden wire around to the left is worth seeking out. A final hard pull gains the upper wall.
FA. Jerry Moffatt 1980


Hard direct!
not much gear just below the crux roof, small skinny stuff and expanding 0.5 friend!
When done original way there is more gear! You can get a good r.p above roof but placing it is shit scary!
Lucian - 13/Jul/00

you can get some good RPs in below the top roof and some small aliens too but would still not like to fall off going over the top roof
philip smith - 05/Nov/00

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