Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?

1 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Blade Runner < Bruce's Bonus  |  Rage > The Running Man >>

Follow the corner then traverse the wall rightwards (pegs/bolts) to a lower-off. The direct finish up the groove is easier (E1 5b), but less enjoyable. With a few wires it feels about 6a+.
FA. Mark Pretty, Ian Jones 1985


This route is spoilt by the lower off at the top of Running Man (the chain is far too long). The finish was a good and scary move until the chain appeared and the finish lost its level of commitment
d simmonite - 13/Jul/00

Don't know about the low chain but if you are tall it is very easy for E3, felt like E1 so I'll compromise at E2.
Baron von Odds - 06/May/03

not E3 and not E1 so definately E2, the chain aint there anymore so its a m assive reach to the lower off
Sam and will - 14/Nov/05

The chain wasn't there when it was first done. It was added for Running Man.
Gary - 16/Nov/05

I agree. Spoilt by the lower off and by the bolt. I decided not to clip it as it would have involved climbing slightly off route which made reaching the peg just before the lower off fairly exciting. Where has the other peg gone. Harder than E1 due to the run out but its easy climbing so E2 sounds fair.
Sam Doyle - 13/Aug/06

Yes, shame about the bolts, which we reckon reduce Androids from E2 to E1. (Of course you don't have to clip them...)
The lower off is out of reach unless you climb to it and not all climbing is vertically upwards if you get my meaning.
However if you don't want to lower off, you're at the top anyway and a top out is very easy. The lower offs are really there for Rage F6b, another stonking route. Chain? What chain?
richard - 06/Nov/06

The route now contains 2 bolts and a lower off, but no pegs. The first bolt is quite awkward to clip and could easily be avoided by purists, but does protect the crux.

Found the route a bit disappointing, it may as well be fully bolted as it's nothing special. Admittedly the upper section was quite dusty following the recent monsoon - at least that's my excuse for the fall.
chris_moor - 28/Jun/07

Has anyone done my direct finish up the groove with 2 bolts to a new lower off.
john warburton - 21/Oct/07

Yes John, Tony Payne did the direct finish yesterday while you were there.
He agrees with your F6b grade.
richard - 28/Oct/07

Pretty much fully bolted at the top now, but you still need wires for the lower groove. It's a shame really, but some good moves on nice rock at the top so probably worth F6a+*
mark20 - 09/Jul/11

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