Tungtvann Top 50

3 Stars

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2 pitches. Start up narrow slabby ice and belay at a tree in the middle of the waterfall. The second pitch can be done either steeply straight up, or more easily, by branching off to the right. This is a narrow waterfall, which can be partly protected by rock gear.
FA. Jan Stenstrøm, Torbjorn Ohlen 1993


stick to the left for upper pitch for maximum exposure and nice trick balancy moves to gret round bulges. You cant see it from tree belay at end of pitch one, but there is a nice little rock cave to rest in half way up the steep bit. When we were there, the easier right hand option petered out onto difficult rock and there were wires, tat and rusty pegs there so it has obviously seen a few retreats. One of the most characterful, enjoyable and atmospheric routes of the week.
David Hooper - 05/Apr/06

Great route. Shame the first pitch is only half ice, the rest just a plod through the snow - at least when we did it last week. Also, the 2nd pitch felt really steep, even overhanging in its lower section, and easily as steep as the 5s I'd done earlier in the week. As withh all ice routes, I'm sure it must vary a lot though.
ianb - 24/Feb/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 7
    hard WI-5 0 of 4
    WI-5 0 of 4
    easy WI-5 2 of 4
    hard WI-4 2 of 4
    WI-4 0 of 4
    easy WI-4 0 of 4
    hard WI-3 0 of 4
    WI-3 0 of 4
    easy WI-3 0 of 4
    3 Stars 3 of 3
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