3 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Massive < The Stalk  |  Giants > Victoria >>

A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which requires a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. Plenty of fixed gear to clip.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays.
FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968,FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966


Great route, the best way to climb Plumb Buttress.
The second pitch contains some lose blocks and demands care, but the traverse pitch is easy if confident, with enough fixed gear not to have to hang around!
Sion - 03/Oct/03

Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.
Shane Ohly - 21/May/07

absolutely mind-bogglingly stupendous. If you're only going to climb one line on this cliff it's surely got to be this one - surplum may be more famous but the traverse on this line is just the dog's! don't hang around placing gear for too long... I also thought fourth pitch probably worth 5b, technically harder than P3 and still pretty exposed.
John Ripley - 23/Sep/08

a truely superb expedition. 2nd pitch a little loose, but still great exposure which only increases with pitch 3 and 4. the belay on the pedestal after p3 is great. one of the most memorable routes in the peak.
luke - 01/May/09

Covers some impresive ground for the lowly grade. Pitch 2 was the hardest to lead, slightly off vertical grass and scree was a bit of a wake up call. Pitches 3 and 4 were a breeze in comparison as the rock was solid. One of the best adventures in the Peak.
craig devonshire - 02/Aug/09

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