The Open Secret

1 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
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The impressive hanging groove is desperate to enter past a bolt runner. It is likely that the rock needs care since it sees few ascents these days.
FA. Dave Lee, Mike Raine 1983. Previously aided.


has been bolted,needs more traffic but o.k.about f6c+
mark s - 04/Aug/04

how can an ex E5 6b weigh in at a lowly 6c+? have the holds changed over time?
richardh - 05/Aug/04

1 move to get established in the groove,easy after that.(does that answer your ?)
mark s - 06/Aug/04

As a trad route it was only E4 6a,and should not have been bolted.
Chris Addy - 08/Aug/04

"Mike replies" I'll admit to retro bolting this line and Fragile Earth.Can anyone remember the state of the climbs on this central,and valuable,section of the Embankment? Well I can.It was so overgrown that it was hard to spot that "Open Secret" even existed.I started cleaning that part of the crag in an attempt to release its true potential.I was surprised at how good some of the rock was.Now,most of the crag is looking like an attractive place to climb and is,now, being climbed on.In putting the new belays on the popular "Breamtime" end,I spotted several "dangerously poised" boulders ready to fall and only held by a frond of ivy. I could not,as a responsible climber,leave these still there so I removed them. Better to offend someone than for someone to be killed as someone surely would have been.I'm nearly finished this work and only hope that my efforts will result in enjoyment and safety all round.
Thanks. Mike P.
P.S. Please don't steal anymore of the crabs that I leave at the belays. How about leaving a better one instead!
Mike and Fra P - 11/Aug/04

May I ask that karabiners are not left on belays nor chain. Whilst I accept that belays need to be augmented, the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust were not happy with chains and karabiners on belays at the outset of the rebolting in the dale - which was done to maintain access in many areas. Staple belays would always be more appreciated on their behalf. If you want help on this, then get in touch with me - I have the staples, glue gun etc which cost quite a bit of money to buy just for a few staples. I make the staples myself which also works out cheaper.
PS I don't think Open Secret should have been bolted either nor Fragile Earth, just cleaned up and a new PR put in.
Gary - 12/Aug/04

Whether it was right or wrong to bolt this route and Fragile Earth,could the person who removed the bolt hangers and belay please return them to me.Maybe if they were put in a box and left in Outside with my name on them that would do.I cleaned this area of the Embankment and bolted these lines as they had gone back to nature.I thought by bringing this part of the embankment back to "life" it would take the pressure off the popular part that is getting really polished.Plus,it makes the climbs there look more attractive.There are some really good climbs there worth getting on.That was all!Mike P.
Mike P - 20/Apr/05

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