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Hard to grade; the crux reach is straightforward for the very tall (7a or less) but for average people it is a desperate dyno. There is a short person's method as well which is also 7b using some miserable little holds.
FA. Gary Gibson 1985


The moves to get past the reach are about 6b/c if you are short (5'5" ish), but are really nice. Still not that hard though.
Ru Davies - 01/Jun/01

the route only has one hard move - I'm not tall enough to reach the good hold - but dynoing is easy (from the undercut and higher pinch), if a little commiting! The easiest 7b around if you like dynamic climbing - hard to onsight I guess.
Tom - 08/Apr/02

i have a 6'5" span and could just reach the good crimp below the pocket.
a good route.
mark s - 26/Jun/03

at 6'1" i can just reach the slot below the jug - easy to balls up the stretch though on the redpoint.
asphinctersayswhat - 03/Jul/05

Word I had to jump and it felt well committing but then it all comes together and it's a great great buzz.
Scouse D - 04/Jul/05

A good route with a frustrating crux, good when you do it.Proberly easier to dyno....
CrAbStiX - 26/Jun/06

I have a 5"10 span and can just reach the good crimp below the jug! You need to move your hand up to a higher, but poorer, undercut about 10cm above the big undercut. Still a frustrating move.
Joe - 11/Jul/10

just jump.
nathan lee - 03/Aug/11

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