Great Western Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Niche < Western Front  |  Grand Illusion > Crack of Doom >>

18m. Perhaps Almscliff's most famous classic. The steep corner leads to the roof and a large spike, traverse left into an exposed position and pull into a short crack with difficulty (hidden holds?). From a rest on the uncomfortable pedestal, finish up a short crack or, MUCH better, head right up the jamming crack on Western Front - the icing on the cake. Be aware of rope drag problems.
FA. Arthur Dolphin 1943


Please remove the unwanted beta from the route description!
Simon Caldwell - 27/Dec/06

Not 5 star, as in the old guide, but very good despite starting up another route. I've just voted for easy HVS but on second thoughts its standard!
Andrew Mackintosh - 21/Feb/07

One star, or two stars when done with the 5 star finish, which is the only good bit of climbing on the route.
Fiend - 21/Feb/07

The 5 star finish is the only way to finish this route - needs adding to the description!
Jamie Moss - 21/Feb/07

It's a fantastic route. For an HVS climber this is as good as it gets. 3 stars, of course.
david sant-noell - 01/Nov/07

I'm sorry but this route is nowhere near as good or as hard as suicide wall, right unconq, sauls crack etc. Just about 2 stars. It is good, but its probably the most overhyped route I've ever done.
bomb a left upon the fascists - 18/Feb/08

Unfortunately have to agree. Been building this route up so much that when I finally did it I found it easy (for Almscliff) and pretty ordinary. Did the finish out right and sat on top feeling more relieved that I didn't frigg it than extatic I'd done a route I've been saving for so long. Shame. VS 5a, two stars.
Dave Foster - 22/Sep/08

Dave Foster - 22/Sep/08

Agree with the above. This route is pleasant but overhyped. If your technique is sound, the route is not strenuous and the gear is fine. Simon is right about the description giving unnecessary beta (its a 40ft VS crack not Indian Face!).
Ed - 07/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard E1 0 of 18
    E1 0 of 18
    easy E1 0 of 18
    hard HVS 2 of 18
    HVS 11 of 18
    easy HVS 3 of 18
    hard VS 2 of 18
    VS 0 of 18
    easy VS 0 of 18
    hard 5b 0 of 19
    5b 0 of 19
    easy 5b 0 of 19
    hard 5a 2 of 19
    5a 14 of 19
    easy 5a 2 of 19
    hard 4c 1 of 19
    4c 0 of 19
    easy 4c 0 of 19
    3 Stars 9 of 18
    2 Stars 7 of 18
    1 Star 1 of 18
    0 Stars 1 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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