Birdlime Traverse Top 50

3 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Nose < South Wall Traverse  |  ‘Arries' Ook > Black Wall Eliminate >>

18m. Follow South Wall Traverse to the bulges but step down and traverse awkwardly rightwards below these to reach a poor rest below a thin crack. Up this on pockets then swing right again to a final tricky move. Devious but superb.
FA. Arthur Dolphin 1946


Where is the poor rest? I had a poor rest in the bird poo but then couldnt see anythign further on. In the end traversed a bit further right from there (to below the crack) but was just too pumped (couldnt recover much at all really) and had to come off. Felt more like E1 than HVS despite the other votes, maybe I was crap.
Si dH - 27/Aug/08

Had exactly the same experience Si dH, I reckon the poor rest is the one in the poo but it took me a while to spot the best footholds so got pumped placing gear. Sounds like I took the same swing as you (just after the good pocket). Pulled ropes and got back on only to find it eases massively after the crux. HVS for Almscliff, E1 anywhere else.
Dave Foster - 24/May/09

Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but so are all the other Almscliffe HVSs, and this one's no harder.
Jon Stewart - 02/Aug/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 33
    hard E2 0 of 11
    E2 0 of 11
    easy E2 0 of 11
    hard E1 0 of 11
    E1 2 of 11
    easy E1 1 of 11
    hard HVS 8 of 11
    HVS 0 of 11
    easy HVS 0 of 11
    hard 5c 0 of 11
    5c 0 of 11
    easy 5c 0 of 11
    hard 5b 0 of 11
    5b 0 of 11
    easy 5b 3 of 11
    hard 5a 8 of 11
    5a 0 of 11
    easy 5a 0 of 11
    3 Stars 10 of 11
    2 Stars 1 of 11
    1 Star 0 of 11
    0 Stars 0 of 11
    Bag of ..... 0 of 11

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.