Forsida Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Baksida < Englevinger  |  Vegetarianeren > Highway to Heaven >>

(The Outside Route) A great climb and by far the best way up The Goat - if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done. The famous jump is now more difficult and dangerous than it used to be due to the wider gap and smaller landing area - it makes more sense to climb across. <br/><br/>1) N3+, 34m. Start at a worn area below the southwest arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.<br/>2) N4, 16m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.<br/>3) N5, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack. Jam this, before moving right then back left to exit onto a slab. A little higher, cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of Sofen (the sofa) and a super-comfy stance.<br/>4) N5, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward, but then easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Head up this by finger-jamming to a stance on the shoulder.<br/>5) N5+, 20m. The diagonal crack splitting the face is the 'West Wall Finish'. Make a hard start, then continue to the notch and a possible stance by a fat old peg. Traverse left across the slab to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Storhorn. Cross the gap to belay on the Lillehorn.
FA. W.Höyer, A.Krane 1947. ,FA. (West Wall Finish) B.Bommen, B.Lyche 1928


Lots of nice sections of climbing and great views, but overall too ledgy to be considered really brilliant. Still perhaps the best route on the Goat (at least of of the easier ones), but climbing-wise not on a par with some of the Henningvaer area routes.
Toby - 07/May/07

This is a must do for Lofoten and well worth the 30 min slog up. On the initial approach you might think it looks very green, but on closer inspection it is clean. Some excellent positions high above Svolvae and only just 5a. Best done with a large group as an end of trip expedition!
Mike Smith - 28/Aug/07

Climbing across the horns wasn't too bad, but thought the ab off must have been a lot easier to sort out before the rockfall - my partner threaded the ropes in discomfort whilst dangling in the gap between horns! Thought the West Wall finish was fairly straightforward for 5+ and found the wide crack on pitch 4 to be the crux.
Jonathan Morgan - 06/Jul/08

Climbed the route after some rain and a wet approach, but the rock wasn't too wet and the climbing was nice! Pitches 3 and 4 were really good, with crux sections in the beginning (for both), while pitch 5 was easier (although it's described as 5+).
Plenty of people and a long queue to reach the top, although the weather was not the best. About 2 hours of waiting at the last stance...
Anders Fougner - 28/Jul/08

Climbed it in quite wet and cold conditions but still good fun. Didn't find p5 harder than 3 & 4
Charles Moreton - 28/Jun/10

Nice and easy, but so many people. My god, better to do it at midnight.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard 6- 0 of 5
    6- 0 of 5
    easy 6- 0 of 5
    hard 5+ 1 of 5
    5+ 2 of 5
    easy 5+ 2 of 5
    hard0 of 5
    0 of 5
    easy0 of 5
    3 Stars 6 of 8
    2 Stars 1 of 8
    1 Star 1 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.