Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 89
A traditional grit HVS, the enticing roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on!
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The grade is meaningless, it's just a struggle!
As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect!
this was an interesting introduction to jamming for me. Very short lived, make sure you lead with the right arm into the top crack.
Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris
Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers.
Somethings wrong then... Jeepers spat me off big time, breezed this one! Elastic legs make things much easier. Was well hungover on Jeepers mind 8-)
Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip.
Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine.
Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward.
As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones.
Ard! Can't see this as HVS or 5b Harder than any E1 ive ever done. Plus I love jamming small hands don't help turning the lip and standing up. Agree with above left heel hook way forward.
Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook
Its HVS 5b. Once you learn the 'trick', its fine, thuggy for sure, but fine. Be careful placing gear over the lip - think about where your hands need to go. Now, Jeepers Creepers, your time has come...(erm, again).